Exploring the Chianti Classico Region "En Famille"

We were living in Geneva, Switzerland when my daughter was born. It was a gift to be centrally located in Europe. We could easily (and affordably) travel by car, train or plane. Once Baby S reached 2 months we were off! The beauty of a 9-week-old baby is that they sleep quite a bit making it prime time to travel for a few months before they start crawling and demanding things more on their terms.

Vaccinations and good health in check, we put Baby S in her car seat and rented a station wagon for our first family road trip. My younger sister was studying in Malta at the time and joined us for the ride down to the famed burnt countryside surrounding Siena, Italy.

I had never been to Siena before and I became enraptured. This area remains my quintessential happy spot. Not a Caribbean island (although those are pretty great, too!), but this wheat colored land blanketed with rolling hills, spotted with slim Cyprus trees and picturesque villages and graceful villas. J and I hope to one day save enough money (post kids college bills, buying a house…the whole laundry list of expenses we still need to take care of) to take a “sabbatical” back to the area of Siena. We even strongly considered naming our second child, if it was a girl, Siena. True amore!

We stayed at Montestigliano (click here) an agrotourism farmhouse that had been tastefully redone. There you are situated on top of a scenic hilltop with the rolling hills of Tuscany beneath and a view of the medieval city of Siena in the distance just 15 minutes away. The complex has lovely apartments and villas for rent on a weekly basis. Rates vary depending on the tourism season. We lucked out and rented the Casa Virginia 1 apartment at a mid-season rate right in the middle of June. The Casa Virginia 1 villa is simply charming and completely functional with a comfortable sitting room, and a full kitchen. There is even a beautiful classic Tuscan hearth adorning the room.

Montestigliano is a working farm that produces it’s own olive oil (D.O.P. mark guaranteeing the quality) from its 3,000 olive trees. They also have sunflowers, corn, wheat and barley. They are ecologically friendly with solar panels and water purification on site.

Even better, they are expert guides on the region and also offer Tuscan dinners set outside a few nights a week for guests to enjoy. The hotel manager shared with us some of his favorite wine spots in the nearby area. Wine has an enormous role in Tuscan heritage of past (dating to the Etruscans) and today. The “Chianti Classico” region stretches between Florence and Siena and covers approximately 172,000 acres. Included in the region between Florence and Siena are the towns of Casatellina, Gaiole, Radda, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Poggibonis, San Casciano Val di Pesa, and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa.

As you drive through the countryside, you will see many signs with Chianti Classico’s black rooster symbol and you can buy directly from the producer. A cantina sign means that the winery has a shop where wine is sold and can usually be sampled. When you spot a Venditta Diretta, stop in and introduce yourself, and taste a few wines. You may stumble upon some gems!

Equipped with local knowledge from Montestigliano, our first wine stop was to a cantina called Borgio Scopeto (click here) where we toured their facility (Baby S strapped into the ergobaby), tasted some great tasting Chianti Classico’s and picked up several great tasting value wines. We really enjoyed the Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico 2007 as an everyday wine. It received 87 points from Wine Spectator (read the review). Borgo Scopeto is part of the Carpazo company, which has its vineyards in Montalcino (southern Chianti). We really enjoyed drinking the Carpazo Brunello di Montalcino 2008, Wine Spectator 92 points, and picked up a case (read the review).

Other highlights from our trip include a magnificent lunch, wine tour and tasting at Dievole vineyard (Dievole website). The name Dievole was created from the Italian words “Dio vuole” translating to “God Wants.” It certainly feels like paradise there on the breathtaking property sipping its scrumptious wines and dipping bread into its spicy olive oils. Reservations are needed and can be made online for the wine tasting and it runs about 18 euros per person, but is worth it. All three of us loved many of the wines from Dievole. In particular, I enjoyed picking up several bottles of their basic white wine, the Bianco de Dievole, for casual drinking at home. It is made from a blend of grapes featuring the Trebbiano Toscano, Malvagia Bianca & Chardonnay. It’s a refreshingly balanced wine with floral notes and a hint of citrus. We also purchased a few special bottles of their Novecento Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva 2008, which is predominantly made from the Sangiovese grape. This wine is elegant, rich, with notes of black cherry, vanilla (from being aged in oak), gentle tannins. Our splurge was a few prized bottles of the Dieulele 2005 Riserva. It’s a beautiful wine to match a beautiful venue!

If you go to Dievole, make a reservation to dine! It is quite an experience and perhaps one of my most favored lunches of all time. We sat outside in the Tasso garden underneath large trees, the service was amazing, the pici pasta (local to the region) the best I had on our trip, and the wines were exceptionally paired. If you do lunch there, make sure to take some pictures. Some of our favorite family photos are from that lunch with Baby S laid out on a blanket on the soft grass.

Another treasured spot from our meanderings through the Chianti Classico region was the Castello di Brolio (website). It is one of the oldest wineries in the world and is where Chianti was “born.” This is the former home of the extremely wealthy Ricasoli family which has owned the estate since 1167. This is the family that created the blend of grapes that are now considered “Chianti Classico” – a blend that is typically 80% Sangiovese grape and 20% other native grapes such as Canaiolo and Colorino as well as other international varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. According to http://www.chianti.com, “Its (Chianti Classico’s) peculiarities are a limpid ruby red color, floral notes for its odor and with an harmonious, dry and sapid flavor with a good level of tannin. The minimum alcohol level should be 12 percent. The best Sangiovese grapes are used to produce Chianti Classico Riserva, a particularly esteemed wine. Riserva wine has a deep ruby red color and requires a minimum maturation of 24 months including three months of bottle fining, as well as 12.5 percent as minimum alcohol level.”

The Castello di Brolio is a fortified castle located at the top of a hill. Parking is available near the Cantina where they sell their wine and have tastings. It’s about a 20-minute walk up a park-like footpath. After visiting the castle and taking the interesting historical tour, we stopped off at the cantina and picked up a few bottles of the Ricasoli Castello di Brolio 2007 which received 92 points from Wine Spectator (read the review) as well as the Barone Ricasoli Colledilà 2007, 91 points.

While in the area near the Castello di Brolio, if you have time, take a stop in Gaiole for a casual lunch (only time they are open), but lip smacking lunch at Il Carlino d’Oro (click here for review). This simple country restaurant is family owned and a worth a visit. Their Bistecca Fiorentina is the best I have had EVER and I could literally hear the cook pounding the meat out in the back before putting it on the grill. The setting is gorgeous and a great photo opportunity…the Brolio estate in the distance. You will drink in the view of the mountains and vineyards and say to yourself this is why you came to Tuscany and this is why you love it. We certainly loved our time in the Chianti Classico region and it remains our favorite Italian vacation. Traveling with one young baby was really enjoyable and I encourage young mothers to try it. The wine along the way helps!

ADDRESSES

Accomodations in Chianti Classico – Montestigliano

Located in Montestigliano Fraz. Brenna 53018 Sovicille (SI) Italy

English spoken

Tel. +39 0577 342189

Email: info@montestigliano.it

Website: http://www.montestigliano.it/english/home.html

Tripadvisor reviews: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g678032-d292988-Reviews-Azienda_Agricola_Montestigliano-Sovicille_Tuscany.html

Cantina Borgo Scopeto

53010 Vagliagli di Castelnuovo Berardenga (Siena)

Tel. + 39 – 0577 322729

Website: http://www.borgoscopeto.com/en/cantina.php